TerryandKenViaFrancigena2022

  • Day 7 Chilham to…dare I say? We made it to Canterbury!

    A day of long hills, a hot slog to the first (and only) pub, and some wonderful surprises along the way.

    Chilham Castle…a private residence now. That’s a lot of floors to mop!

    They love their doggoes here.
    Church of St Mary in Chilham. Goes back to the 7th century! The flat brown pieces in the wall are Roman tiles. We were able to crash a couple’s wedding rehearsal and listen to organ practice.
    What I like about these churches is that almost every one had a toy or book corner for children.
    This sign did not bode well…it sadly did not lie.
    We were greeted by a very vocal sheep…she was complaining that we hadn’t brought any food.
    These be oast houses. What be an oast house, ye might ask? Ask not, for I know not what for be these oast houses. Well, actually they are drying houses for hops, a primary ingredient in Ken’s favourite beverage. Dotted all over Kent.
    My daily flower picture.
    The footpath goes between 2 tall hedges to keep us out of the apple orchard. (But it didn’t! 😄)
    Badger hole in our path. It was about one foot in diameter. I was going to put something there for perspective for the photo but decided I liked my hand too much to risk it.
    The aforementioned apple orchard. With Cheery and Bunger.
    We will be climbing the hill just to the left of the trees. Heavy sigh.
    Poles are used to support hops which grow very tall.
    At the top.
    Major apple orchards. The “pickers caravans”. This family supplies almost all the fruit in southern England.
    Strabbie has found his family!
    These strawberries are grown at waist height with a drip irrigation system.
    Easy picking, berries are clean, and no need for good ground soil.
    Which way do we go?!? By this time we are hot, thirsty and hungry. Guide said there was a pub here but it lied. We asked someone who turned out to be a little drunk and kept practicing his American accent on us…and in the end told us nothing. And then we met him on his bike about 30 minutes later…he had been looking for us to tell us there was a pub at the top of the next big hill. Very strange.
    It was unclear if we were allowed to stand here. They could still squeeze in a sign or two if they really tried. I waved at the camera just for giggles.
    Yet another oast house and our first thatched roof.
    And 10% off for walkers.
    Long uphill and then…nirvana. Coach and Horses pub…yet another centuries old pub. Owner Pete has relatives in Newfoundland…and went to school for 6 months there.
    We head off for our last mile to Canterbury Cathedral but are intrigued by the sound of very loud and energetic calliope music…we crashed an English garden party!
    This is Dorothea, an air powered music player.
    Mick Jagger came over from the old folks home next door to combine about the noise! This is a long video but you only need to listen to a bit to get the idea. Warning…I told Ken to move his fat….
    Dana…another Father Don! I ran back to ask if I could have his picture. The lady who took this photo said Father Don had just been telling her about these Canadians he had met on their way to Rome and that we were “mad”. Ha ha. Not too far from the truth. But he gave us a blessing anyway.
    Our first view of Canterbury Cathedral through the trees. We are almost there…less than a mile!
    Many signs of support for Ukraine, with flags flown in towns and churchyards and private residences. Good to see.
    These kneelers are all hand embroidered.
    Water bowl for dogs on the left. Beer for Ken on the right.
    And so we walk through Canterbury gate and arrive at the gates of Canterbury Cathedral . The official end of our walk along the Pilgrim’s Way and shortly to be the beginning of our Via Francigena.

  • Day 6 Lenham to Boughton Lee’s to Chilham

    The day started with me kicking over a dog water bowl under the breakfast table. Ken was embarrassed by my clumsiness as he considers himself more graceful. Uh huh. No pics of the doggies but the spaniel who was there first did not appreciate the golden lab who in turn hated the next black lab intruder. Much barking and chaos ensued! But I guess if you are a pub called the Dog and the Bear, you have to let dogs and bears in. No bears were seen.
    We needed another tie down, so we bought a pair of black panty hose, which are working great. And Ken loves how they make his legs look. Insert a Terry eye roll here.
    Interesting public footpaths. The bottom is called a drop gate. No clue as to its function.
    Lenham Cross War Memorial. Carved through the grass about one inch down to the chalk. How anything grows here is beyond me.
    Our Camino shell!
    Me: the trail smells pretty, like blossoms. Ken: like my butt? Me: insert massive eye roll here. Also me: seriously questioning my choice of long distance walking partner. And then we came upon this field of blue flowers.
    For my fellow Scouters. This was a neat safety idea. The scout was walking by himself but would leave these cards to indicate he had passed this way.
    No, Ken, you are not buying a Figaro. Although…on the other hand…I would look cute in it…hmmmmm….
    I love these roadside egg stands…and the sign brightened my day.
    So few benches…thank you, Ralph!
    The fact that there is a plastic bag hanging from the trolley stems from our first bit of testiness. We were hot and tired and Ken was on his “it’s after 12:00 pm therefore the pubs are open” mission. So we walked over a kilometer downhill to a village, only to find no pub and no food. Only a tearoom full of breast feeding new moms having a mom and baby time. Terry found this hilarious. After Ken had fruitcake, we made our way back up the hill finding a small store which sold beer. Which Terry had to carry back up the long hill. Like the queen, she was NOT amused. Ken wants to say he is not at all testy considering he is walking 2000 km out of
    his way, when he could just be sitting in his man cave back home.
    Love this big old beech trees.
    Another shell.
    Where are we?
    Soybeans
    This poplar is determined NOT to die!
    Note the blur of yellow racing across the green to the first pub we’ve seen all day – it is about 400 pm and we have not eaten. And Ken’s knee is bothering him. And there are still 10 km to go. Waaaah!
    Supper. I pretended it was steak.
    Our next Camino angels. We struck up a conversation with Rick and Alex while I tried to call a taxi as Ken was about done and his knee was bugging him. No taxi available. So we were offered a ride…but not before sharing my crisps with Kipper the most adorable “red fox” Labrador who has the absolute best “pleeeeeaase share your crisps with me” guilt inducing stare. This was so much appreciated! The ride, not the guilt. 🙂
    Ken slept while I wandered the lovely town of Chilham.
    Pilgrim statue
    Bugsnax trying to phone home.
    Waiting for the bus and playing hide and seek.
    Revived!
    Woolpack Inn. So much history.

  • Day 5…The Lower Bell to the Dog and Bear Hotel in Lenham…19 km

    A much more pleasant day today…cooler temps, cloudy skies, nice breeze and generally easy walking along a one lane road (Pilgrims Way) and a few paths. People are very kind, with one gentleman making sure we had enough water, another recommending a better route and two Camino angels who helped us through a spot so that we didn’t have to backtrack for several kms – we couldn’t take photos or they would get in trouble.

    The Lower Bell. Essentially a pub with 4 rooms.
    Breakfast at the Shell Station. Liquid Weetabix…not bad.
    Lucky timing. Crossing the tracks just as the Eurostar went by on its way to the Chunnel. Barely had time to lift my camera it went so fast! Also begs the question as to why we are not on it!?!
    White Horse Stone. One of several Neolithic megaliths (ie big stones) guarding a burial in this area.
    When I retire I am going to move to England and become a dog walker. Oh wait…I AM retired! As a note I always ask people if it is okay to take and post a photo.
    He’s difficult to see but there is a white sheep in this family!
    At a cenotaph for Detling airbase.
    What a brilliant re-use of the iconic telephone box…tiny town with no medical services…so they’ve installed a defibrillator.
    Of course…there is a difficult decision to be made. Save a life or die by spider bite. He was huge!
    For those unfamiliar, the scallop shell is the symbol for the Camino de Santiago, a 1000 year old pilgrimage where people walked from their homes to Santiago in northern Spain. When you walk the 800 km route you follow yellow arrows and yellow shells. You get pretty quick at finding them (so you don’t get lost)…And 3 years later I still pick them out. Detling, on the current Pilgrims Way.
    Narrow lane…not too busy but no fun when you have to squeeze into the hedgerow to let a vehicle pass and it is full of stinging nettles.
    Chalk cliff. The chalk stones are very lightweight.
    Love these old pubs that have been here for centuries. We’ve decided to call our walk a “pub crawl” as that seems to be more motivating for Ken than “Hey! Let’s walk from London to Rome!”
    No, Ken, you cannot buy a Bentley!
    Free range eggs. £1.50 for 6 (about $2.30 Cdn).
    Ken said he was impressed with my colour coordination…blue pack, blue shoes, blue shirt, blue Camino shell necklace…and big blue bags under my eyes from lack of sleep. He is such a charmer! But hotel rooms have been so hot sleep has been elusive.
    Bugsnax with snail buddies.
    The next pub – The Dirty Habit.. Originally the Pilgrim’s Rest from the 1200s onward. The “dirty habit” refers to the robes of the monks who used to work the fields around here.
    I can’t wrap my head around these timelines.
    Look how my kebab was served. And Ken’s tartar sauce came in a scallop shell.
    You guys are too young to drink!
    So…some people buy really expensive Royal Doulton figurines. Ken takes photos of Royal Doulton urinals. Heavy sigh.
    Very hilly today. A style for crawling over the fence and a random couple coming down the hill on the trail.
    Ken finally found someone to talk to.
    Funny…this the exact same expression Ken has when I stop to take photos. Ie eye rolling. But Ken thinks the monk is just snoozing after a long walk up the hill we just came over.
    Farmers allow recognized public footpaths across their lands. Look how exacting the seeding was on either side of the path. At then of this short path is our hotel for the night. Yay!

  • Day 4…walking from Wrotham to the Lower Bell Pub and Inn…

    The heat wave broke…to the upper 20s…but better than 37 so today we walked and walked…and trudged 19 km and began wilting later in the day…but were saved…

    Leaving The Bull I see where the oregano flowers on my salad last night came from. And it is pronounced like the US state of OreGON-o. Not o-RAY-gano. Who knew?
    Do not be fooled by conniving Pilgrims Way signs that make you think you are going in the right direction. I would blame it on Ken but he reads these posts for false accusations. Too bad for me. Heavy sigh.
    Lovely walk through forests…
    With climbs over styles…
    Through narrow little kissing gates…
    Which are meant to protect the sheep and all the little lamb babies who sang for us as we walked through their field.
    Down narrow lanes…an opportunity for a photo of the 2 of us…instead of Ken’s rear…
    Mail boxes in the most random places.
    Where are we? I dunno!
    Are we lost? Ask Ken. (The Bugsnax look very worried! They must be…to ask Ken for directions!) 😄
    Yes, here’s a guy who looks like he knows where he’s going!
    These plants and the thistles
    above are over 6 feet tall.
    Scary “Mirkwood” for all you Hobbit fans.
    First sightings of chalk cliffs…they are being quarried.
    Out of the shade and into the hot sun.
    Lavender!
    These tunnels are creepy.
    Bishop’s palace wall…still standing since 1077. Ken had to replace our bathroom wall from 2002.
    For my son Peter…and no, we did not stop at McDonald’s.
    Original church with some windows dating to the 1100s. Bells are from the 1700s, with some older headstones in the cemetery.
    And our first church pilgrim stamp since leaving Southwark. I noticed the guest book had been stamped so I went searching through the little desk (should i admit that?) and found the stamp. My fellow Camino-ites will understand.
    The church gate had a sign indicating this was a “Commonwealth Grave Site”. One lone soldier, brought home to his wife. WW2 is a fresh memory in this part of England.
    The path is getting so hot, the Bugsnax are tired and cranky (or was that me?), but I still like to enjoy the flowers along the way. Or maybe the flowers are just an excuse for a breather break. And we still have 4 km to go…or do we???
    Meet our next Camino angels, Judith and Roy! We met them at the bottom of a hill – they had been out biking and informed us that the trail actually ended up ahead and we would have to walk the last few kilometers on a very busy road. Instead, we were invited into their fairy garden, plied with ice water and ginger biscuits and welcoming conversation. Judith has family in Canada and spent several years there. And after that, we were driven in style to our lodgings for the night. We are so very grateful to them as the temperature had hit 31 and we were struggling to go on. We have been met with so much kindness! Thank you, Judith and Roy!
    Don’t fall in, Bunger! (Part burger, part dung beetle, with Curly fry legs and tusks, in case you were wondering)
    Wood pigeon at the edge of the pond.

  • DAY 3…We are melting! And not because water has been poured on me, despite what Ken says.

    Given the forecast temperature of 40 °C, we decided to forgo walking today Day 3 and taxi to our next village. But we did get in a mile walk down the path we were supposed to take. Sad to miss out on the English countryside.

    Peter asked for more photos of his models. Here Strabbie is looking a little canniballistically at my yogurt and berries. Dana…there were…dare I say…currants in my yogurt!
    Bugsnax at a tea party.
    We walked about a mile down our intended route, before it got too hot. Glad to get out of London and into the country.
    So much Roman history here. And who could resist a discombobulated Roman centurion head? Don’t worry Ken…you wont notice the extra weight as he migrates into your bag instead of mine. I can’t help it if he is sneaky!!
    I love cows with a sense of humor! The story is that the Alexander family arrived by train from Scotland with 17 Aryshire cows in 1892…butvi don’t think these are the same cows…
    Grateful for my sun glasses…the glare from those glowing pasty white northern Canadian legs would have blinded me!
    What the…? Why??? And there is no air conditioning in these hotels. Melting. I am melting.
    Ken is on beer #4 today. 5 yesterday. 4 the day before. Not that I am counting (insert eye roll here). Nor does he look repentant. No surprise there.
    There has been an inn here since 1280 and the current inn is from 1365! Love staying in these historic places…even in the heat. The Bull is one of the oldest hostelries in Britain. The pub licence was issued by Henry VIII! During WW2 fighter pilots Biggin Hill airfield made this their favourite pub and signed their names on the ceiling. The Holiday Inn down the highway probably had air conditioning but…that just seemed wrong.
    Also King Henry the VIII stayed in this town of Wrotham waiting to hear that his loving wife Anne had been duly beheaded. Should I be worried that Ken is “waiting in the pub?
    For my fellow Camino pilgrims…Cindy, Sharon, Nancy and Steve and Dave. St Jacob/James with his staff, gourd and scallop shell…window is over 500 years old.
    St George’s church from the 13th and 15th centuries. Tombstones that I could read were from 1700s so some even earlier burials.

    I am not one to post food pictures but this “chilled pea and mint soup” was soooo good!
    I was asked to provide a “proof of life” photo. My wardrobe is varied…not.
    If only this were true…I would be a rich girl!

  • Day 2…and 2 realities…

    Today’s first reality was walking fully loaded, carrying everything we own on our backs and on the trolley…including Ken’s long underwear and Fleecy for crossing the Alps. The second was the temperatures…it was 32 degrees by 10:00 am…did i mention we are lugging cold weather clothes??? W

    e had walked 6 km in the morning but decided to cab it to our destination, as temps were to hit 38. England was supposed to be a gentle introduction to our walk…cool and damp. No such luck. Tomorrow will be hotter and we will be looking at alternate transportation.

    Forgot to mention that I light candles for my parents and Ken’s parents in the churches. The 3rd candle is for a young lad named Ryder, who faced challenges too difficult to imagine and who graced his family for a short 12 years…this is for his grandparents Bev and Brian who dedicated their lives so unselfishly to Ryder’s care. I am in awe of their love for him.
    Green parrots in London!
    The “scenic” walk along the Thames was hugely industrialized.
    Blackberries everywhere but still not ripe…
    Camino angels Jo and her mom Peggy. We decided to call it a day in Erith due to the heat wave. Sitting in the mall outside a Costa Cafe. Jo phoned a cab for us and took us out of the mall to find the taxi stand. Camino angels were those people who went out of their way to help others. So grateful to these kind ladies.
    From the industrial Thames to the River Darent in Eynesford. Welcome shade and cool water.
    The “ford” in Eynesford.
    Such a lovely village. Ken hates when I get ideas. Those petunias and pink shutters give me “ideas”!
    A knitted tea cozy for the top of the mailbox. Maybe give my knitting-crazy sister some ideas?
    An ancient cemetery with 2 recent military burials and the town cenotaph. Sobering.
    For you, Nancy. Our silverware had the traditional Camino pilgrim shell. We are on the Pilgrim’s Way.

  • July 17 The Walk Begins

    For some reason I decided to not start this until the day we first started walking. We were dropped off at Calgary Airport by our good friend Ruth. 2 naive little pilgrims who figured they did not need to train as hard as they did for the Camino.

    The Mule

    After 6 hours in the car, 5 in the airport (and only a 5 minute wait thru security despite all the scary airport stories…and an added 2 minutes for Terry to get patted down for having “abnormalities ” in her scan)…8 hours on the plane…Ken still had most of the mental faculties required to re-assemble our trekking trolley. Terry offered helpful suggestions which were met with grunts…so she went off to buy chocolate. Good British chocolate.

    We will call these the happy “before”
    pics…before we knew what hit us. We are renting a room in a town house literally beside the Thames…and the local sewage plant but we won’t mention that!

    As per usual, we took a day to acclimatize to the time change and as per usual Ken found a pub to spend it in. I took the train back into London to scope out our pilgrim starting point at Southwark Cathedral (thank you Helen and Mark for correcting my pronunciation of “wark”…it is just “erk”..as in Southerk. And not pronounced South either. Heavy sigh.

    Pilgrim passport.
    An enterprising soul turned an old red telephone box into a coffee stand. Very cool…unlike the temperatures.

    We are staying in Thamesmead. We chose a place on our path actually past the Cathedral, so that we didn’t have to try and pull the trolley through the church and crowded streets of London. I wanted to be at the church for a morning service at 830 am (don’t tell my very Catholic mother) and walk afterwards but the trains weren’t running and local taxis were booked (see trains not running)…so we decided to walk backwards from our lodgings to the church so that we could get an early start to avoid the heat. In the 30s. Never thought I would wear a dress to hike in but…

    I thought the shoes coordinated very nicely, n’est pas?
    Ye Olde English bulldog…
    Youse is gonna pay for eating that, Ken!
    Bill is sitting with 3 Bugsnax models that my son Peter created using a 3D modeling program. A friend 3D printed them and Peterand Scott painted them. I have orders to photograph them along the way.

    Meet Strabbie Bunger and Cheery.

    After a very hard slog through very hot streets, we finished our first day’s 18 km trek to the Cathedral, just in time for Evensong…choir from Canterbury was singing…fitting, as Canterbury is the official start of the Via Francigena to Rome.

    Very thankful for these instructions when crossing the roads.

  • And so it begins on July 17th…London’s Southwark Cathedral to Canterbury  Cathedral and on to the Vatican in Rome.  By foot and bicycle and sheer determination! 

    We survived the Camino 2019. Now onto a new adventure. Will we still be talking to each other at the end of it? Only the Via Francigena knows! 100 days, over 2200 km.